Windows 10 - The birth and death of troll

Windows 10 upgrade sure was total troll by all means possible

First, I didn't plan to upgrade Windows 10 until at least 6 months had passed since release but looks like Microsoft wanted me to upgrade no matter what. You see when you're playing fullscreen RTS you definitely do NOT want any pop-ups do you want to ugprade Windows 10 right NOW!. Well good thinking Microsoft, I have to admit, that you put pop up window to middle of screen and "Yes"-button would be under default position of the mouse when it returns from full screen application. Oh I was totally pulled rug under my feet when my online RTS session suddenly ended to message: "Please stand-by Windows is being upgraded" with no option to cancel and computer rebooted to automated installation. 

Second: I do not like new Win7/8 Mix layout at all. I liked Vista layout, when upgraded to Windows 7 I had to make it look like Vista. Still my Windows 7 layout is same as it was in Windows 7 and I tried Windows 8 and 8.1 until it broke down by itself and had to reinstall to Windows 7. Well anyway lets continue, problems with Windows 10 is that default explorer got huge face uplift that looked like Johanna Tukiainen after plastic surgery. I was totally, no no no no no no, nope nope nope nope nope. Anyway even though I hate Windows 10 I still tried to learn to use it and turns out you cannot power use same way as you did old one. Button icons are not in same place, old shortcut keys do not work, huge load of crap when logging in and trying to set up finger print scanner and software which ultimately failed because Windows 7 registers are still showing my fingers are registered for my current windows account but you cannot use old ones so you have make new ones but hey you cannot delete old ones, so you have to make new ones, but you still cannot delete old ones, so try make new.. Sigh...

Third: It self-destructs very interestingly. You know what you do not want computer OS to do to you? Halt all operation for no apparent reason and after rebooting you notice features are missing. First I lost search function, no search function in start menu or folders. Okay, I can live with that, I remember where everything is so no problem. Second it decides you're using too much calculator and it is bad for your brain, so let me delete that for you. So no search function or calculator, greeaaaaat.

Because second time doesn't come without third, the third deleted whole start menu completely and pressing command key (windows key) crashes Windows. Bravo! Bravo! Bravo! Hilariously absurd behavior from released OS that should have been tested a lot before put into field release. You know, I tried to use Windows 10 open-beta but after installation it crashed when I got to desktop and Windows core files gone and cannot boot windows or repair it.

Now we get to interesting part, I had my school works needed to be finished so I wasn't able to afford reinstall Windows and reinstall all programs that I need for my school projects so I kept just using Windows 10 without search function, no start menu or calculator. Then 14th day of December a miracle happened. Windows 10 installed some updates and start menu, calculator and search function came back to alive! So I am going to be trolled again in near future or did they fix these bugs? I checked virus program logs and it hasn't deleted or marked any files suspicious so I have ruled that out.

Brute force and electronics don't get along so well - episode 2

Another case for repair!

Somebody saw my original repair post for poor GPU and asked me if I could fix his motherboard.

Seems like owner has tried to install new CPU cooler and screwdriver pierced motherboard coating and one of the memory lines is cut. 

Here are the pictures that he shared with me

http://imgur.com/a/IzY0n

Things are a bit harder now because you see those are timing lines, which means instead of trusting chip to control when timing signals are released you trust good old physics. Electric flow speed is about 50-99% of speed of light depending on medium it is traveling. So with some length difference between lines you get wanted delay for signal to arrive at the destination (this design is utilized with some oscilloscopes to measure very high frequency signals (over 500MHz))

So for this repair I need to trace the line very carefully and use same width repair copper foil.

Below are pictures of the fix.

Now I just have to wait a bit until the board owner tests does the board work now.

Edit: Owner reported me that motherboard works perfectly. One less device for WEEE.

Logitech G500 mouse repair guide for cable, ghost clicks, switches etc

Logitech G500 fixes:

• Ghost click guide: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dWJk4EWfyOA
• Cable repair guide: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KmgcGRcuYtc
• Left / Right mouse button (general guide): http://superuser.com/questions/339587/logitech-m705-left-mouse-button-doesnt-stay-down-when-pressed
• Scroll wheel (middle) mouse button: This blog post

Tools needed

- Small screwdriver set

- Soldering station with iron (flat head works best)

- Solder (you need very small amount)

- Desoldering braid

- Tweezers

- Shear cutter

New parts needed:

- 4x4x0.8mm SMD tactile switch push button 4 pins (costs 2 cents each if you buy 100 of these)
You can buy these from ebay

Warnings:

• You should not try this fix during warranty (Logitech sends you a new mouse if button stops working during warranty cover time)
• It is recommended to have a cup or something for screws, springs, so you don't lose them
• You should not try this fix by yourself if do not have steady hand to solder SMD components. Main switch covers will melt if you touch them with your soldering iron.
• Fix takes about 5-10 minutes for experienced hobbyist / professional but if you have not soldered before take your time.
• I used 370C temperature for soldering and desoldering

Step by step: Or watch disassembly video (until to the metal clip removal)

1. With a small flat screwdriver or with tweezers take off the pads
2. With a small cross screwdriver loosen screws under pads, notice there is one screw driver under "Logitech G500"-sticker. You do not have to take off sticker, there is ready cut for access already (just push screw driver into the hole)
3. Lift cover off 
4. With finger nail, tweezers or screwdriver open ribbon cable connector from cover's side (smaller PCB), do not use force! 
5. If you have a small red cable attached between cover and base, unsolder the red cable from main PCB (Older revisions have this cable)
6. Unscrew red weight slot system (3 screws)
7. To take off wheel, next to the free-wheel button is a black plastic pin which slides sideways, take it off. Now you can lift scroll wheel out (no screws holding it) (note: next to SW3 switch are two very small springs, which are not secured to anything)
8. Unscrew metal clip at front of the mouse
9. Desolder SW3 pads
10. Remove broken SW3 (you probably can see the dome on switch has collapsed inside). To remove SW3 warm one corner with iron and lift that corner up a bit with tweezers and move to next corner. Again do not use force, you don't want PCB's pad to come off. Repeat this process until the switch comes off (takes a bit practice).
11. Desolder SW3 pads again and add solder to one pad
12. Cut extra length off from new switch's legs (short cut will happen when you screw the metal clip back during assembly)
13. Solder new switch in place
14. After soldering, connect mouse to PC without assembly and test does the new switch work
15. If no problems, assemble mouse in reverse order.
16. If you had to remove the red cable, solder it back.
17. Screw the metal clip
18. Attach two small springs next to the switch
19. Put scroll wheel back in (note the plastic part must go under the metal clip)
20. Put the plastic pin back in
21. Put the weight slot back in
22. Slide ribbon cable back into the connector and close the lid.
23. Screw the cover back and attach the pads

Assembly video:

Damaged switch (the button cover dome has collapsed)

Damaged switch has been soldered off

New switch in place, had to remove the switch to shorten legs (the metal clip will short cut button)

Couple devices to be fixed

Logitech G500

Alright, I have owned Logitech G500 4 years now and had it warranty changed once. Those who own probably have had problems with it like double clicking (brand new), middle-mouse button doesn't work, wheel doesn't spin, free wheel function doesn't work, cable problems and so on... Recently they admitted firmware problem with ~45ms delay with clicks. 

Anyway so my G500 problem has always been middle mouse button just dies, and it seems to be very cheap switch indeed. With patch of 100 it costs 2 cents each. With Logitech production size most likely cost is below 1 cent. Oh they use these switches even with their highest end G9 mouses aswell. I originally posted quick tutorial how to fix these mouses on Logitech forums but it got deleted right away and my account was set to banned status for a moment.

So logitech doesn't want information how their mouses can be repaired to be shared on their forums, so have to make a good tutorial for it. I am currently still waiting for switches to arrive from China and when I get them I will make full tutorial.

ZTE 931WII Modem

I received this free trough forum. Owner said it fried when plugged into outlet. So far only thing which I have checked is power supply which is dead. I will later get to laboratory and start inspecting PCB what is broken / fried if anything is wrong. Might just be that power supply died and the modem itself is good to go.

Stay tuned.

New year, old shit

I love winter but some guys don't like and keep pouring salt on roads to melt winter. Sadly car's don't like salty water at all

Last winter's damages: hand brake ceased (again), a dent on exhaust (pot hole), a crack under bumber (pot hole) and ARB bushes have splitted (MOT issue if they spot it).

How to fix hand brake? 100% Rubber hammer time, give a good beating to hand brake hook at brake caliper to get it moving then use a ton of CRC, hammer a lot more then clean hook from salty mud if any of that shit is left. Works? Yes

A dent on exhaust: no rust yet so cleaned it and put some rust cover mass on it, so most likely no problem.

The crack under bumber? No big deal, nobody sees it and it doesn't affect anything. I will hang MOT dude if he says anything about it, it is just a decoration under car.. For fucks sake

The next issue is ARB bushes. I was working whole 2014 year and I didn't have time to fix everything so I let guys at garage to look at those bushing and call me if there any cracks. Well shit 3 months later a crack on both ARB bushes, I bet they did nothing so probably not going there anymore. Okay for some miracle those bushes could have splitted after the garage visit but I had symptoms (shaking, no wheel alignment issue) and car would't stabilize during turns (shock issue or ARB issue or both).

Shocks are fine, no leaks and shaking on standstill stops just fine so probably bushes then. I should have known but there is next project for summer to change those ARB bushes. Need to put whole car front on jacks, go under it, unbolt ARB, take out old bushes and put in new ones with white grease. 

Do not buy wheels that do not have enough big center bore hole. Seriously, it costs damn a lot for simple job.

So I bought new summer wheels that were on Nissan before. Nissan uses 66.1mm center bore and my Forfour 67.1mm. Not big difference but enough big for wheel not to go on hub. Dealer said to me it has aluminium rings to make bore smaller but surprise surpise. Behind wheels under all that dirt you find "Nissan" word and then you know you're screwed.

So what this happy nice operation costs? Now first thing you need to get the rubbers off first. Yes they cannot make center bore bigger without removal of tires. It won't fit into machine.  (Unless you got clown car wheels). Well anyway tire removal costs 10-30€ depending on shop but if you go at busiest time of the year then you have to use more expensive ones if you want to get your wheels before autumn. 1mm removal costs me a total of 30€, not too bad thank god but then comes the fun part... Fitting new tires... Now because it is the busiest time for tire shops, cheap ones cannot do it within month so off to blood suckers. Blood sucker took 19€ for one wheel. 19€!!! Grand total: 20+30+76 = 126€ to install wheels. Great deal! Now you see they only charged 30€ from me, how much other shops would have? 50? 100? Lesson: Always check center bore diameter on wheel, you can make it smaller very cheaply, making it bigger... Well that costs about 15 times more