Good news everyone!
Had to try it. Managed to sell my original ForFour "Strokeline" 15" alloys. 120€ for whole set with minor cosmetic faults.
As you can see that kind damage is hardly even seen but dropped price pretty much. Asked for 200€ at start, no offers. dropped it down to 150€, one guys applied it to his favorites then I knew there was someone who wanted these. Waited a few weeks to see are there any others then dropped price to 120€. After a week a guy left his contact information and I called him and he decided to buy them and come fetch them a few days later.
Selling alloy wheels, actually even steel ones is a bit tricky. You see you cannot fit just any wheel to your car. Like how tall they are, wide, bolt size, bolt circle diameter, offset, bolt pattern and centerbore hole. If you're able to provide all of those information you are pretty good to go and sell or buy a set. Mine 15" strokelines were
15" tall, 6" wide, max. 21mm bolt size, 114.3mm bolt circle diameter, 4 bolts, offset (ET): 46mm and 67.1mm centerbore hole.
In short: 15"x6", 4 x 114.3mm, bolt: 21mm, ET: 46mm, CB: 67.1mm
You can experiment here: http://www.wheel-size.com/tire_calculator/
And the bad news
First I told in previous post about clanking CV-joint. It has gone a bit worse and I probably need to fix it as soon as possible. Second problem is that my trunk door won't anymore open. And as you might have guessed right already it doesn't have key slot.
First way to open:
So what you need to open it is a small flat screw driver, slide it between lock and hook at right side and push until you hear 'clack' and you opened first stage. Second stage is opened same way but if your screw driver is too big it won't open.
Second way to open:
Remove the plastic panel that is covering the lock from inside. It is hold in place by two T20 or T25 torx screws and then you pull it gently towards you from window edge (you hear four spins napping off) and then you pull it upwards. Easy eh? Then you can either short cut that small green / black plugin that goes to outside switch (if motor works) or you can push plastic slider hand with metal stick to open the lock. (I will post a picture later what thing to push, well there is a black and white plastic arms behind the lock. Pushing the black one towards white opens the lock)
Then you need to figure out what is faulty. In my case it is the micro switch which is dead. And to replace it I need to take off rear wiper arm motor assembly and for that I need to go buy a few tools.
The lock is easy to take off from trunk door. It is hold in place by three large T30 torx screws and two cables go to it. First one is easy to take off and second one needs you to take the lock outside first and then you have enough room to unlock the holder. The opener motor is held inside the black plastic box which is hold in place by two small screws. Inside you can find very average DC motor, two sprocket wheels, a spring and a screw bar. Simple design, almost impossible for it break down. More of this in later post when I open the trunk again to remove the microswitch.
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