Friday, May 15, 2015

Logitech G500 mouse repair guide for cable, ghost clicks, switches etc

Logitech G500 fixes:

Tools needed

- Small screwdriver set
- Soldering station with iron (flat head works best)
- Solder (you need very small amount)
- Desoldering braid
- Tweezers
- Shear cutter

New parts needed:

- 4x4x0.8mm SMD tactile switch push button 4 pins (costs 2 cents each if you buy 100 of these)
You can buy these from ebay


  • You should not try this fix during warranty (Logitech sends you a new mouse if button stops working during warranty cover time)
  • It is recommended to have a cup or something for screws, springs, so you don't lose them
  • You should not try this fix by yourself if do not have steady hand to solder SMD components. Main switch covers will melt if you touch them with your soldering iron.
  • Fix takes about 5-10 minutes for experienced hobbyist / professional but if you have not soldered before take your time.
  • I used 370C temperature for soldering and desoldering

Step by step: Or watch disassembly video (until to the metal clip removal)

  1. With a small flat screwdriver or with tweezers take off the pads
  2. With a small cross screwdriver loosen screws under pads, notice there is one screw driver under "Logitech G500"-sticker. You do not have to take off sticker, there is ready cut for access already (just push screw driver into the hole)
  3. Lift cover off 
  4. With finger nail, tweezers or screwdriver open ribbon cable connector from cover's side (smaller PCB), do not use force! 
  5. If you have a small red cable attached between cover and base, unsolder the red cable from main PCB (Older revisions have this cable)
  6. Unscrew red weight slot system (3 screws)
  7. To take off wheel, next to the free-wheel button is a black plastic pin which slides sideways, take it off. Now you can lift scroll wheel out (no screws holding it) (note: next to SW3 switch are two very small springs, which are not secured to anything)
  8. Unscrew metal clip at front of the mouse
  9. Desolder SW3 pads
  10. Remove broken SW3 (you probably can see the dome on switch has collapsed inside). To remove SW3 warm one corner with iron and lift that corner up a bit with tweezers and move to next corner. Again do not use force, you don't want PCB's pad to come off. Repeat this process until the switch comes off (takes a bit practice).
  11. Desolder SW3 pads again and add solder to one pad
  12. Cut extra length off from new switch's legs (short cut will happen when you screw the metal clip back during assembly)
  13. Solder new switch in place
  14. After soldering, connect mouse to PC without assembly and test does the new switch work
  15. If no problems, assemble mouse in reverse order.
  16. If you had to remove the red cable, solder it back.
  17. Screw the metal clip
  18. Attach two small springs next to the switch
  19. Put scroll wheel back in (note the plastic part must go under the metal clip)
  20. Put the plastic pin back in
  21. Put the weight slot back in
  22. Slide ribbon cable back into the connector and close the lid.
  23. Screw the cover back and attach the pads
Assembly video:

Damaged switch (the button cover dome has collapsed)

Damaged switch has been soldered off

New switch in place, had to remove the switch to shorten legs (the metal clip will short cut button)

1 comment:

  1. This is such a simple guide yet good enough to learn because it will help us to prevent from spending our money by paying some technicians to do the repair on our device. Here are some few tips about the best gaming mouse 2016 that will be applicable and compatible with your PCs with fewer problems.


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